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Archive for April, 2009

France: Week One – Part I

France: Week One-Part I

We flew over on Air Tahiti Nui – not your first thought for air travel to France, but I was offered a nice upgrade to business class! Flying 10+ hours in business class is a hell of a lot more fun than flying in the back of the plane. Service, drinks, movies, the time flies by literally. I drank some very nice wine and was able to get a little rest on the flight.

For those of you that know me, you know that I have a compulsion to try to do too much. Combine that with a perfectionist approach and a dose of micro management and it’s a recipe to repel most people. I like the pace I keep, I like to push myself and I enjoy the challenge of living a double life. Sure, I must give up TV, and this concept called “relaxation” but I’m most relaxed when all the details are covered and positive things are happening.

Anyways, getting me on a plane can be a little bit like sheep herding. I have all my life to squeeze into a bag, typically too heavy for check in (another perk of business class – heavy bags) and I have a need to bring my computer, my filing cabinet, the new camera (that I have not figured out how to use yet) and probably about six months of projects to finish on the plane.

I sit down in business class and a glass of Champagne (yes, real Champagne) and there is a pool of calm. The airlines know if they feed you and allow you to drink; it’s only a matter of time before you sleep. That is where I come in, I don’t need much sleep, but when I do I can sleep standing up in the hallway. Sure, I love my 550 thread count sheets, but just give me a minute in the back seat of your car and I’m out. Otherwise, I’m good to read, write, eat and drink on the plane and without interruption, look out world. I planned the next 5 years of my life and managed to read 6 magazines, a newspaper and drink several different wines. Of course I had the service team bringing me the wines blind so that I can work on my blind tasting – I’m sure they loved that (not).

Upon arrival into Paris, I picked up my 59 pound bag (about 5 Kilos overweight) and wheeled it towards my car (by appointment) and head straight to the hotel – I have 200 emails to send in my outbox.

The concierge at the hotel received my 5 pages of instructions and made all my plans for me: Train, restaurant, open/closed museums, I’m sure she was happy to see me (probably thought I was nuts) but I reward her with about 20 euro and she was more than willing to help me with the details.

It was early in the day, but my room was ready, and that was a surprise. Unfortunately the 2009 world economy is hitting Paris but they do not feel or look like a recession is hitting them – there are huge lines for all the major attractions and people are everywhere – the 4 and 5 star hotels are about ½ of normal and the staff is a little thin. The same person that answers the phones is also the concierge, and the bellman. I’m guessing that my 50 bed hotel had about 15 rooms booked, not good.

My companion had never been to Paris, so there is a “welcome to Paris” package that is to be expected. Eiffel tower, The Louvre, The Arc, and too my surprise, a double-decker bus that I use to think was a nightmare became my best friend. The bus service stops at all the major monuments (9 stops) and you pay one fee for 48 hours (about 24 Euro) and you can get on and off as many times as you like. This is better than finding a taxi and it was some of the best weather I have ever seen in Paris. The bus was a joy, it also told me of the history on each building which was pretty cool. So I include a picture of the bus service and recommend it to everyone if you have not been to Paris, and recommend it to those of you that have because it is so regular and so available – I think I saved about 50 euro in Taxi just using this service and I learned a lot about the city I love so much.

Paris - week one - part one 037 by you.

La Duree – My passion for food is obvious (big gut hanging over my belt) but it’s not because I just love food, it’s because I love ambiance, service, décor, design, china, glassware, silver, I love the details. Great casual food service with a well thought out experience can be as nice as a very formal dining room, if both are done well. When I find flaws that are obvious, that’s when I no longer enjoy myself the way I like. I can forgive on service more than most details because service is such a personal experience. It’s the other stuff that is more conscience that I am aware of. Texture of the paper on the menu, the thickness of the glass, the noise in the room, the linen on the table, the quality of the furniture…. It all matters!

I go to La Duree, not because it is perfect, but they have made more efforts on these points than most. The very French – slightly worn and cool Louis the XIV inspired furniture with very textured and heavily trimmed walls, painted ceilings, grand chandeliers, and use of silver service (all good but not glossy shined or burnished as we would say in the Food and Beverage departments), combined with lots of wonderful details that really make the La Duree experience authentic. The food is amazing but I don’t think it would be as good if everything else where not in place.

Paris - week one - part one 015 by you.

Shopping in Paris – for years, the dollar has been worth less than the Euro. It doesn’t mean you can not shop and find value in Paris. A $150 bottle of Perfume is 90 Euro – about the same. But did you know that most Perfumes are made differently in France – the famous brands make the US version in the US or China or somewhere else – and the French is made in France. I’m sure some brands are different but my personal experience is that this is a must to buy in France.

Clothing and the labels are the same. Hugo Boss makes their clothing in Germany, but the stuff we get in the US is made in Mexico or Asia. We are not as smart or as cool as we think we are in the US.

Cars in France – first, a liter of petrol (about 1/4th of a gallon) is an investment – I think I figured out that a gallon of gas would be about 12.00 dollars! Imagine what that would do to the types of cars we drive? How much we drive and traffic conditions! I am all about making gas more expensive in the US and making changes happen because they are supposed to. One of the false US ideals is that gas engines are a right… petrol is a privilege and it should be treated more that way. Most Europeans drive around in cars that are about the size of a golf cart, easy to park and light on gas. We Americans first comment – what if we were hit by a hummer on the freeway? They don’t have many hummers here (zero). I want to buy stock in SMART cars when I return home…. It’s the same guy that did SWATCH watches by the way.

Paris - week one - part one 032 by you.

Click HERE to check out more pictures from my trip!

My day with Veuve Clicquot

Visited with Veuve Clicquot on Wednesday, April 15th in Reims.

Facts about Veuve Clicquot:

Veuve means Widow, and Madame Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin was widowed at age 27. Although she was married into the family, her strong business acumen convinced the family to allow her to run the property.

She ran the house of Clicquot until the age of 89 – becoming renown as the Grand Dame.

The house is now amongst the strongest brands in the world of wine.

80% of the wine is the Yellow Label NV blend (most famous – although the label is arguably Orange) and it is exported to every country in the world. The wine is 60-65% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and the balance Pinot Meunier. 30% of the wine is made from Reserves (older vintages) which give the wine great richness and roundness.

Clicquot is the second largest vineyard owner and makes all their production in their Reims facility.

Madame Clicquot was a major force in the way we think about Champagne and the house of Clicquot maintains a very innovative edge.

  • First to produce Rose
  • First to produce Vintage
  • First to label their Champagne
  • First to package in baskets for export
  • Hired German President who had the international touch to help establish the trade market.
  • Stayed family owned until the late 1900’s and is now owned by LVMH
  • LVMH owns Veuve, Moet, Krug, Ruinart, and just purchased Montaudon

My tasting was held with Pierre Casenave, a young winemaker from Bordeaux in his first year with Clicquot working under the experienced cellar master. We tasted the young wines as individual components which show you the singular benefits of each varietal – and when blended together how they compliment the wine. We tasted Yellow, Grand Dame and an older vintage.

In my opinion, the Champagne industry is in a great position. There is no issue with quality, supply is short, demand is long and price can increase without issue slowly over time. The great wine of Champagne, the “Tete du Cuvee” can increase in production to improve revenues, as long as the market is strong, and in weaker time periods or vintages, the supply of Non-Vintage can improve which is a great balance that I’m sure other wine appellations envy. The downside is that the cost of production is massive and the carry over cost of inventory is a killer. The wines require 3 years in bottle and the wine is made one bottle at a time. Consumers do not mind paying twice as much for a young red but have a hard time following Champagne all the way to the top of the price market. I think too many producers have fallen into the trap of marketing the Tete du Cuvee through high pricing, and that a natural selection of the best wines will establish the natural pricing structure.

Veuve Clicquot continues to innovate new ways to improve market share and sell at a premium. The American market for Veuve remains healthy; while the current 2009 marketplace may stress smaller brands back out and allow Veuve a healthy increase in market share.

Flavor profile: generous red fruit style, which drinks well as a cocktail as well as pairs well with food.

Competitors: Taittinger, Moet, Charles Heidseck, Piper Heidseck, Pommary, and a host of smaller grower wines.

Retail $39.99-49.99

Paris - week one - part one 075 by you.

vcp label by you.

Click HERE to check out more pictures from my trip!

The Production of Wine

For my MW (Master of Wine) exam, I need to be well versed in the following fields of wine production:

Characteristics of the vine.

            Vine species. Wine varieties. Clones. Development of new vine varieties. Vine propagation. Rootstocks and grafting. Growth Cycle of the vine. Life cycle of the vine.

Establishment, re-planting and Acquisition of vineyards.

            Practical and economic issues of planting or re-planting, vineyards. Issues concerning the acquisition of vineyards through purchase or inheritance.

Factors Affecting grape growing.

            Climate. Weather. Soil. Aspect. Effect of those factors on wine style, quality, yield, and cost. The concept of “terroir.”

Cultivation of the vine.

            Types and methods of pruning and training. Underlying principles and practical applications of canopy management. Irrigation. Application of fertillisers. Use of herbicides. Green harvesting. Implications for yield of all of the above. Biodynamic, organic, and other alternative cultivation methods.

Maladies of the vine and their control.

            Vine pests. Vine diseases. Physiological disorders. Prevention and control of the above.

Structure and composition of grapes.

            Grape structure. Chemical composition of grapes. E.g sugars, acids, anthocyanins, tannins etc.. Analytical techniques. Fruit ripeness. Noble rot.

Harvesting of grapes.

            Time of the harvest. Picking options. Grape transportation. Quality and cost implications.

Processing of grapes.

            Grape reception. Grape handling strategies eg de-stalking, crushing, pressing and skin contact. Must treatments. Temperature control.

Fermentation

            Alchoholic fermentation. Role of yeast, enzymes, temperature and fermentation vessels. Strategies for the extraction of colour, aroma, flavor, and tannin. Carbonic maceration, whole bunch fermentation and thermovinification. Theory and practice of malolactic fermentation.

Maturations and blending.

            Maturations options for the wine makes. Types of maturation vessel. Inert storage. Blending options. Timing of bottling.

Stabilization, clarification, packing and labeling.

            Movement of wine in bulk. Methods of stabilization and clarifications eg. Fining firation, centrifugation, cold stabilization etc. Use of chemicals in wine making and wine handling – their function, action and application. International regulations governing the use of chemicals. Packing into bottles and other containers. Ingredient labeling. Closures.

Production of sparkling wine.

            Productions techniques for sparkling wines. Grape selections and pressing. Temperature control. Selection and blending of base wines. The second fermentation. Maturation. Finishing.

Production of fortified wines.

            Production techniques for fortified wines. Selection of base wines. Timing of fortifications. Practice and significance of blending and maturation.

Quality assurance and quality control

            Composition of wine and its faults. Analysis of wine, its purpose, use and limitations. QA and QC ystems and structures for wine and dry goods. Practical issues of QA and QC. Compliance with statutory regulations. Effects of storage and transport on wine after packing.

_MG_1048 by you.

Stars of Santa Barbara at the Peninsula: 1.21.2009

The 6th Annual Stars of Santa Barbara! Way before”Sideways” rocked wine scene, LearnAboutWine was responsible for aligning the wine stars of Santa Barbara for the annual event that brings together the top echelon of Santa Barbara winemakers at the Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills.

Thanks so much to the wineries, as well as, everyone who came out and helped make this evening amazing.

Now its time to get ready for our next Stars of SB event! On June 24th, we’ll be heading down to South Coast Plaza for the first ever, STARS of Santa Barbara Orange County!

_MG_9244 by learnaboutwine.

Click here to check out the photos from The 6th Annual Stars of Santa Barbara!

Stars of Napa Valley at the Peninsula: 03.24.2009

On Tuesday, March 24th, we packed the Peninsula Hotel Beverly Hills with 200 trade attendees and a sold out consumer audience.

Over the course of the evening we raised $5000 for the TJ Martell Foundation!

_MG_1536 by learnaboutwine.

Click here to see the rest of the photos from the evening!

 


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LAW Facts

On American wines, use of the term estate bottled is legally restricted. This phrase indicates that the wine was bottled where it was made and the grapes for the wine came either from the winery's own vineyard or a vineyard on which the winery has a long lease. For French wines, chateau or domaine-bottled means the same thing.